Chicago is serious town indeed. It is serious about a lot if things – baseball, basketball and gridiron are like a religion in this town. But it is also a very serious food town. I find it so beautiful, the amazing blend of early 20th century sky scrapers and the most modern buildings all winding round the river and the great lake. Its physical beauty is second only to the wonderful diversity of great eating one can do in this town.
It is also home of what might be a new type of restaurant to sweep the globe. Welcome to Grant Achatz’s newest restaurant – Next. Grant is the owner and chef of the famous Alinea restaurant which is one of only two Michelin 3 star restaurants in Chicago. To say that his new restaurant is different is an understatement.
It is in both its philosophy and execution a new breed of modern eating house. For one, you don’t make a reservation at Next; you instead buy a ticket online, as you would for the theatre or a concert. It started with a bang and so much so that the second ‘season’ of Next sold out over the internet in 90 minutes. What do I mean by ‘season’? Every 3 months the restaurant moves from one cuisine to the next – firstly it was French, then went to Thai, and now their serving ’Childhood Memories’… How amazing is that?! It’s popularity is partly due to Grant’s incredible stature in America and Europe, and also very much due to how good this restaurant is. What I love about it is the charge for food, drinks and the tip is all rolled into one. There are no hidden extras, and most importantly from a restaurateur’s point of view, there are no no-shows.
It’s an incredible challenge for the chefs and the service staff, but how beautifully they pull it off. Sam and I ate there in May when the theme was ‘Paris 1906’ – an homage to August Escoffier, and it was a standout. The food and wine-matching were simply as good as it gets. And the service – the service is a tribute to all involved and their love of Grant’s philosophy. You are served by people who are proud of their restaurant and love what they do. If you do manage to get a ticket to Next, you will have the most wonderful well-crafted food, and the experience I promise you will be worth the trip abroad. It will be amazing.
Has Grant created the restaurant concept for the future? Will people buy a ticket and pay for it upfront? I’m not sure… the only thing that I do know is that Grant has created a wonderful oasis for food, drink and enjoyment and I can’t wait to get back! Here is a run-through of the dinner we ate there…
Hors d’Oeuvres
Cheese Gougères
The most amazing selection you have seen:
Oefs Benedictine - a truffle crème with really light salt cod brandade underneath
Smoked salmon mousse in pate brisee
Rabbit boudin blanc with strawberry jam
Foie Gras in brioche – really delicious with a fruit chutney
Pork rillettes
Anchovy with soft boiled quail egg
Leek and mushroom duxelle that was so flavoursome with the mushrooms
Potage à la Tortue Claire
907
A really nice, simple turtle consommé with vegetables, served with a Vin Jaune from the Jura.
Domaine De Montbourgeau l’Etoile Cuvee Spécialé’ Jura 2003
Fillet de Sole Daumont
1950
This was a nice dish – sole fillet, a crayfish head filled with crayfish mousse, crumbed crayfish roe, a stuffed turned mushroom and a delicious crayfish sauce. I loved the technique involved, the different textures and how beautifully the dish came together.
Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four 2006
Suprêmes de Poussin
3130
Really lovely chicken breast cooked sous-vide, covered with a foie gras galze. On the side is a chicken mousse, encased in cucumber then wrapped in salt pork. The chicken had a great texture to it, very delicate and perfectly cooked.
Domaine Leon Barral Faugères 2009
Carré d’agneau
3476
Rack of lamb, lamb sweetbreads and lamb rillette served with crispy onion rings, a rich lamb jus and sauce Choron – not often seen nowadays but still great.
Michel & Stephanie Ogier, ‘La Rocine’ Syrah, Rhone 2005
Caneton Rouennais à la Presse
3476
This dish was as much about the theatre as it was the finished product. The duck is roasted, then carved and the bones are transferred to a large press. All of the flavoursome juices are pressed out of the bones, then they are added to a reduction of cognac, red wine and jus and reduced further to make an amazingly flavoursome sacue. True classical cooking.
The reduction is started on the stovetop…
The meat is carved, then the carcass is cut up with scissors and transferred to the press.
The resulting juices from the duck bones, which is then added to the reduction. Pure flavour.
Gratin de Pommes de Terre à la Dauphinoise
4200
Classic dish.
Domaine Brusset Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail 2005
Salad Irma
3839
A nice, light way to finish the savoury courses, with asparagus tips, radish and nasturtium flower.
Sorbet Sauternes
This was an incredible palate cleanser. De Bortoli Noble One is frozen in liquid nitrogen (about the only way you could ever freeze it) at the table and scooped into a beautiful antique coupe. It was so cold that it felt like it was going to burn my tongue, but instantly melted away into delicious ice-cold dessert wine.
Bombe Ceylan
4826
Coffee & vanilla ice cream on a chocolate cookie base, all encased in a chocolate shell and dusted with cocoa, served with some rum soaked cherries. Perfection.
Dow’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port
Mignardises
A really elegant way to finish the meal, with salted caramels, nougat and almond stacks…
Sam and I – can’t wait to go back!